I often compare jean and bathing suit shopping to mentally prepare my clients of the challenge ahead. Finding a new pair of jeans can be daunting, but equally devastating when your favorite pair finally quits. Denim is a huge subject to tackle and I hesitated before writing this blog knowing the infinite topic it is. However, I find knowing the basic fit, anatomy, silhouette, care, and purchase criteria can help in this huge campaign.
You must first understand fit and anatomy to find a great pair of jeans, which go hand-in-hand. With every pair of jeans, you have the waistband, yoke, pockets, closure(zipper, buttons, etc), rise, pant legs, inseam, and hem. When you put on a pair of jeans, the first thing to notice is if the waistband sits flush against the body, not cutting in excessively or gapping. Change your size in pant for less bulging effect and get a seamstress to take in the waistband for any gaping. Remember most premium denims stretch a half to full size after warming to your body temperature. I have seen many people buy a size up only to have their jeans "stretch out" on them. If you can't decide, buy the jeans and wear them with tags while watching Netflix to stretch and test the comfort factor. You can return the jeans for alterations or exchange later.
The waistband is an easy alteration, but the yoke and pockets are not. Check the placement on the behind for both to make sure their placement compliments your shape. The yoke is the large seam that adjoins the legs to the waistband on the back and is generally in a v-shape. The more inverted the yoke, the rounder the behind appears. If the yoke is too low on the butt it may "shrink" the butt or may it look flatter.
Pocket placement on jeans substantially controls the appearance of denim. You generally have 4-5 pockets on jeans, 2 on the back, 3 on the front including a small coin pocket, but the shape of the pockets vary. Pockets draw attention, period. Choose your pocket position on where you need the most aid. If you want to add volume, choose larger or embellished pockets. For less attention and minimizing effect, try plain and smaller. The ideal place for back pockets varies on the size of your behind. I find if the bottom pocket sits about an inch above the bottom of the buttock, it is best. It never hurts to ask someone's honest opinion to help with this process.
While looking at the back of your jeans notice the fit through the leg. Do they appear to be pulling or really loose in the wrong places? Jean legs have little to no added fabric between a size shift and preemptively deciding jeans are the wrong size without considering how much they stretch will fail you. Sit down to determine if the rise (from crotch to the top of zipper) is long enough for your body and comfort. I always recommend trying on multiple shirts while considering a pair of jeans to see if they stretch out to your liking, especially skinny jeans.
As you stand, look at the inseam/length of the jeans to see if they are the proper length on you. Bring the appropriate shoes for this decision. Are the jeans touching the floor, have excessive bunching, or expose too much skin? These are all generally indicators that you need to alter the length of the jean for a proper fit. Most premium denim these days have a longer inseam to accommodate different heights and assumes alterations for proper fit. When you shorten jeans check out the hem for intentional distressing or fading. If so, pay to keep the original hem. If the jeans are a solid color at the hem, your tailor can create a new hemline. You never want your jeans to look "altered," so get them tailored professionally.
The basic jean silhouettes are skinny, straight leg, relaxed fit/boyfriend jeans, bootcut, trouser, and flare. The type of jeans you should own comes down to lifestyle. I recommend choosing the denim style you will wear the most and buy it in different washes. A medium rinse wash for everyday wear, a dark wash for evening or for business casual, and a distressed edgy pair to make you feel current. Complete your denim wardrobe with a pair of black jeans and colored denim in your favorite cut. Denim possibilities are endless, but like anything in your wardrobe, make sure you will actually utilize what you buy. If you have a drawer full of jeans that are trendy, worn out, or you never wear, let them go or better yet don't buy them in the first place.
Premium denim is an investment ($150-$300) and should be cared for correctly. It should be washed about once a month inside out, in cold water, and in the delicate cycle. For only the first wash, add a capful of plain white vinegar to the rinse cycle to help set the dye in the jeans. This will help with fading and color transfer. NEVER put your premium denim in the dryer. Contrary to popular belief: drying your jeans in the dryer doesn't shrink them down (unless you have 100% cotton jeans). It actually makes your jeans bigger, because the heat from the dryer breaks down the elasticity in your jeans, which results in lost shape, puckered areas, and why your jeans seem too big. To shrink the fibers down, try putting your jeans in a large ziplock bag in the freezer overnight. Both the freezer method and hanging your dungarees outside help eliminate odors. Try these tips to extend the life of your jeans.
I have hungrily curated many jeans because the fashion industry is flooded with denim and the trend isn't slowing down. A great denim jacket, blazer, chambray, skirts, and even accessories can favor any wardrobe. I find a casual-cool feeling associated with mixing denim into my everyday attire. I am a non-apologetic fan knowing a great fitting pair of jeans can nonverbally communicate confidence, knowledge, and never goes out of style.
